# Tip 1: How to build a pattern pencil skirt

straight skirt knee-length, narrowed down, is always in fashion.Very often, the individual characteristics of the figures make a purchase skirt in store problematic.Tailor skirt - pencil yourself according to your measurements will not be difficult.For the calculations you need to take your measurements: putting the waist (CT), putting the hips (SB), the length of the skirt (DOJ) and the length of the back of the waist (DTS2).How to take your measurements can be found in any magazine for sewing.
you need
• - a piece of tracing paper (wallpaper or wrapping paper)
• - calculator
• - pencil
• - line
• - tape measure.
Guide
1
Draw a rectangle with vertices T, T1, H, H1.Party CT1 must be leveled SAT ± 1.5 cm, the party TN - length skirt .To find the line of the hips value DTS2 divide by 2 and subtract 2 cm. The resulting value aside from the point T down and draw a horizontal line, put the points B and B1.Divide the amount of SB 2, and the resulting figure aside from points of T, B, H, t
o the right, putting the point T2, B2, H2.Connect the points obtained by a vertical line.The resulting rectangle will be the basis for the rear leaf skirt .
2
To determine the total solution undercuts, by putting thighs SAT ± 1.5 cm subtract putting waist cm + 1 cm. The resulting value (SV) is required to write.For the design of the side skirt line NE divide by 2. The resulting number by 1/2 aside from the point T2.Draw diagonal lines 2 cm above the point B2.Smoothly chamfer line bulge under the thigh about 1 cm upwards.Put the point of H2 for 3 cm on both sides and complete skirt narrowed down, not leading up to the hip line of about 10 cm. You needed to draw back and front recess.
3
segment BB3 multiply by 0.4.The resulting value aside from point B and will extend up to the waist, put a point T3.A solution of the rear groove is 1/3 of the total groove (SW).Put this value from the point of T3 in both directions.Draw a diagonal line up to 2cm above the B3.
4
Locate the front undercut by multiplying the length of the segment T2T1 on 0,4.Poluchennuyu value aside from the point B1 and extend up to the line CT1, set point T4.The width of the groove of the front 1/6 of the NE.Overlaid the desired number in both directions from point T4.The length of the recess is 10-12 cm. The parties draw a straight line.In the finished drawing the angle of the hips to lift 1,5-2sm and smoothly complete your waistline.Circle the main lines and cut ready pattern .

# Tip 2: How to build a pattern straight skirt

straight skirt is appropriate in the wardrobe of any woman.It looks good as slim and full figure, because visually lengthen it.The basis of the pattern of such skirt is a basic template.It is better to not do on paper, cardboard or plastic film, because it will come in handy more than once.For pattern direct skirt require him to make some changes.
you need
• - a sheet of graph paper;
• - line;
• - gon;
• - pencil.
Guide
1
If you do not have the basic patterns, start with its construction.Remove the measurements.You will need putting the waist, putting the hips, length and distance between the lines of the hips and waist.Construction start with a rectangle.On the line of intersection of the left edge of the graph paper with a broad set point T1 lines and put on her right thigh circumference plus allowances for free customized fit, and down - the length of the product and put the point of T2 and N1.Spend these points perpendiculars to their intersection with one another, denoting the resulting point H2.
2
T1T2 Down the line spacing set aside the waist and hips.Draw a line parallel to the waist line, and mark it B1B2.Determine the position of the side seam.To do this, divide the putting thighs with add on to the free allowance in half encirclement.On the hips set point, it can not be denoted.Increase the front half of 1 cm, and the same amount back to reduce and put a point B3.That part of the patterns, which is on the left is defined as a front portion, and the right to be let back.
3
Determine the position of the front recess.To do this, divide the line B1B3 and set aside for 5 from the line side seam is the distance to the front half of the pattern.By this point, perform the perpendicular (dashed line) down.In perpendicular postpone distance of 9-10 cm, depending on your height and size of the stomach.
4
find the back of the middle groove.Divide line B2B3 in half and put the resulting size of the suture line towards the back half.Draw perpendicular to this point at a distance of 13-15 cm. Its size depends on the growth and shape of the buttocks.
5
Compute solutions recesses.To do this, determine the size of the waist in the front half.To measure your existing add allowances for free customized fit and put the resulting distance from the T to the right.Put point T3.The solution recess represents the difference between the increased freedom of encirclement putting thighs and also putting an increased waist.That is, it can be calculated by the formula R = (FOB + PSO) - (POT + PSO).Share this yardstick by 2. The result was the total size of all the recesses.Of these, half are defined on the side, 2, 5 cm will go to the front, the rest of the segment - on the back.All measurements divide by 2 and set aside.Set aside half the size of the waist on both sides of the corresponding dotted line.
6
Adjust the waistline.Lift from the side seam, a centimeter and a half lines recesses - about 0.5-0.7 cm. Draw a straight line between the tops of the front and rear ends and recesses.Side groove circle smooth curve, repeating the lines of the figure, from the tops to the point B3.Connect the dots T and T1 smooth concave line connecting the top of the recesses and the upper edge of the middle line.The basic template you ready, now it is necessary to model based on it pattern direct skirt .
7
Model the rear recess.The solution is you know it.Divide by 3 2/3 goes to the first groove (it is closer to the middle of the rear part) 1/3 - to the second closest to the side seam.Determine their place.The middle of the first recess is located at a distance of 5-7 cm from the middle.The distance between the centers of two recesses is 7-9 cm. Their depth is respectively 13-15 and 12-13 cm.
8
Lift the ends of the recesses of the waistline.The first will be at 0.3-0.4 cm above the second - 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect all the dots the top of the back of the same as you did when building patterns forehand skirt .
Note
For a long straight skirt is necessary to provide the slot or cut.
Sources:
• Lessons sewing - straight skirt
Note
When cutting the skirt do not forget the seam allowances.